The Dalai Lama began his trip to Taiwan today by insisting his stay was non-political, after China warned that it would damage the island's relations with the mainland.

The exiled spiritual leader offered prayers for recent victims of typhoon Morakot as he kicked off the visit, which has brought together China's two most sensitive territorial issues. Beijing said the trip was "bound to have a negative influence" on recently improved ties across the strait.

The Dalai Lama did not discuss Tibet, although on a visit to a village buried by a mudslide he told reporters he was dedicated to promoting democracy. About 570 people died across the south of the island as Morakot unleashed harsh winds and torrential rain this month.

Beijing usually criticises in harsh terms nations that allow the Dalai Lama to visit, warning that he is a "splittist" who wants Tibetan independence – although he insists he seeks only autonomy. Taiwan is an especially sensitive case because China still claims sovereignty over the self-ruled territory.

But the tone of official comments was low key and China blamed the opposition Democratic Progressive party (DPP), which invited the Dalai Lama, rather than the ruling Kuomintang. The president, Ma Ying-jeou, who engineered the recent thaw with the mainland, approved the trip but will not meet the Buddhist leader.

In December Ma said 2009 would not be an appropriate time for the Dalai Lama to visit. But when the DPP issued the invitation, he faced a choice between risking the anger of Beijing and offering ammunition to his critics, who argue that he has been too concerned with pleasing China and that the government's handling of the typhoon was slow and incompetent. His popularity has been badly dented by the disaster.

"I'm very, very strict, [the trip is of a] non-political nature," the Dalai Lama told reporters. But he added: "We are not seeking separation for Taiwan, but the fate of Taiwan depends on the more than 20 million people [here]. You are enjoying democracy and that you must preserve. I myself am totally dedicated to the promotion of democracy."

He said the island should have "very close and unique links" with the mainland.

Kneeling on the ground above what was once the village of Hsiao-lin, in southern Taiwan, he offered prayers for the estimated 500 people who died in mudslides triggered by Morakot.

"We welcome him and we're very happy that he's here," said Liu Ming-chuan, one of 50 former residents who had returned for the visit.

Prior to his arrival in Taiwan, the Dalai Lama said it was his responsibility to accept the invitation because there were many Buddhists there.

The spokesman for the Taiwan affairs office of China's State Council attacked the DPP for its "ulterior motives to instigate the Dalai Lama, who has long been engaged in separatist activities, to visit Taiwan," according to the state news agency Xinhua.

He added: "We resolutely oppose this ... [His] visit is bound to have a negative influence on the relations between the mainland and Taiwan."

A member of the ruling Kuomintang said the party had sent an official to China to speak to the Taiwan affairs office, but he declined to elaborate on the reason.

About 20 protesters demonstrated outside the Dalai Lama's hotel today, saying the visit was not bringing real disaster relief to Taiwan.

"I love it," the Tibetan spiritual leader told reporters. "It's an indication of freedom of expression. It's wonderful."